Approval & nomination

How to Become a Nominated Trim Supplier for UK and EU Fashion Brands (Step-by-Step)

A step-by-step guide for zip, button, snap and trim manufacturers: how brand nomination really works, what each team inside the brand needs to see, and how to turn approval into orders.

By Martin McGinley · Published 21 October 2026 · Last reviewed by Martin McGinley on 21 October 2026 · 9 min read

Most large UK and EU apparel brands do not let their garment factories buy zips, buttons, snaps and rivets from anyone they choose. They publish a list of nominated (sometimes called approved, preferred or recommended) trim suppliers, and factories producing for the brand must buy listed components or obtain written approval for an alternative.

You can see the pattern in documents that have become public. NEXT circulates an approved trims supplier list covering zips, metal notions and other components [1]. Macy’s publishes a nominated zipper and metal trim supplier list [2]. Kohl’s private-brand programme uses “Preferred” and “Recommended” tiers and requires Preferred suppliers for metal components on newborn and children’s products [3]. The details differ, but the principle is the same: the brand decides who may supply, and the factory places the order.

That single fact explains why so many capable manufacturers never get nominated. They sell hard to a buyer, when the decision is actually made by a group.

Step 1. Understand who actually decides

A nomination is the outcome of agreement across several teams inside the brand, each with its own question and, in practice, its own veto.

Team Their question What convinces them
Technical (garment and product technology, quality) Will this trim perform on our garments without returns? Results on the brand’s own test protocol, honest application limits, attaching support
Product (design and development) Does this supplier make our product better or easier to develop? Development speed, custom capability, range fit
Regional sourcing (sourcing offices, vendor managers) Can our factories buy from you easily and reliably? Local stock, samples and technicians near the factories
Compliance (chemicals, product safety, sustainability) Can you prove compliance now, and keep it under control? Article-level test evidence and a written change-control process
Merchandising (buying and planning) Will this help us hit cost and delivery? Total cost, on-time delivery, fewer claims
Commercial (sourcing leadership) Does adding you improve our supplier base? A clear structural reason: second source, regional coverage, a capability gap

A supplier who wins the buyer but leaves compliance unconvinced is not nominated. A supplier who passes every test but cannot serve the brand’s Bangladesh vendors is approved and never ordered. Plan for all six from the start.

Step 2. Score your readiness honestly

Before contacting any brand, assess yourself across product fit, technical evidence, compliance evidence, sustainability evidence, regional presence, documentation, commercial terms and references. Be harsh. Brand reviewers will be.

The most common gaps we see are:

  • Test reports that do not match the article. A report for “metal zip” is not evidence for a #5 antique brass zip with a custom puller.
  • Compliance evidence held at company level, not article level. Several regulations, including the new EU PFHxA restriction, measure each homogeneous material separately [4].
  • No regional service. The brand’s factories are in Bangladesh, Vietnam or Türkiye; the supplier’s only sales office is at the plant.
  • Sustainability claims without numbers. “Eco-friendly” means nothing to a compliance team. “Recycled polyester tape, 100% by weight of tape, GRS scope certificate number” does.

Step 3. Build a dossier that a reviewer can navigate in five minutes

Your approval dossier is often read by someone who has never met you, in a hurry, comparing you with an incumbent. Structure it so that each team finds its answer quickly:

  1. Index page with a reference for every document.
  2. One-page capability statement that opens with your structural position in one sentence.
  3. Technical data sheets per article group, with materials, finishes, performance results and attaching specifications.
  4. Test matrix: one row per article, one column per requirement, with report numbers and dates. Explain every gap.
  5. Compliance pack by market: nickel release (EN 1811 for the EU and UK) [5], PFAS, REACH SVHC declarations, CPSIA lead results for US children’s products [6], and your EUDR position.
  6. Sustainability evidence with percentages by weight and certificate references, plus a data sheet per article that anticipates Digital Product Passport requests [7].
  7. Regional service sheet by garment-making country.
  8. One-page change-control procedure: what happens, and who is told, when a material, plating, dye or sub-supplier changes.

Step 4. Map the brand before you contact it

For each target brand, list the people in each of the six teams, what they are working on and what signals you can see: new categories, sourcing-country shifts, sustainability targets, published supplier requirements. Public sources include the brand’s annual and sustainability reports, its supplier lists where published, job advertisements and the LinkedIn activity of its sourcing and technical staff.

Then decide your structural position: the narrow, checkable reason why adding you improves the brand’s supplier base. “We are the best zip supplier” is not a position. “A qualified second source for metal zips in Bangladesh and Vietnam, with local stock and attaching technicians” is, and the brand can verify it.

Step 5. Make first contact with evidence, one team at a time

Send different messages to different teams. A technical contact wants a test result relevant to their category. A compliance contact wants to know you hold PFAS and nickel evidence per article. A regional sourcing contact wants to know how close your stock is to their vendors. Keep each first message short, specific and honest about what you can prove.

Trade shows help when they are used to deepen contact rather than start it. Book meetings two weeks ahead, offer one specific reason to visit, record each conversation by team, and follow up within three working days with exactly what was asked for.

Step 6. Pass sampling and testing first time

When you are invited to submit, treat it as an exam with published questions:

  • Ask for the brand’s trim manual, test protocols and restricted substances list, and test to them, not to your own standard.
  • Submit production-equivalent samples, with a cover letter that lists article codes, finishes, quantities and supporting reports.
  • Ask for evaluation results, including failures. A failure handled quickly, with root cause and corrective action, often builds more trust than a pass.

Step 7. Build internal advocates

Nominations move when someone inside the brand argues for you. That is usually a technologist who saw your trim solve a problem, or a sourcing manager whose vendors like your service. Make their job easy. Give them a one-page summary written for each colleague they need to persuade, keep them informed, and never put them in a position where your failure becomes their embarrassment.

Step 8. Turn approval into orders

Being listed is not the same as being ordered. The garment factory still negotiates price, quality and delivery directly with you [8]. As soon as you are approved:

  • Contact each of the brand’s vendors that produce your category, with a named local contact, the approved article list, lead times and minimums.
  • Offer an attaching technician for the first production run.
  • Report programme performance to the brand every quarter: volumes, on-time delivery, claims and corrective actions.

Step 9. Stay listed

Nominations are reviewed. Suppliers are removed for failed re-tests, unannounced material changes and service problems. Keep a register of every test report with its expiry date, re-test before reports lapse, notify brands before changes, and respond to quality issues within 24 hours. Regulations will keep moving: the EU PFHxA restriction began to apply on 10 October 2026 [4], and the EUDR applies to large and medium operators from 30 December 2026 [9]. Brands remember how you handled change more than whether you were perfect.

A realistic timeline

For a well-prepared supplier, the path from first contact to first nominated order commonly spans more than one season, because brands review trims around their development calendars. Use the first 30 days to close readiness gaps, the next 30 to map the brand and make first contact with three teams, and the 30 after that to complete surveys, submit samples and review progress with your advocates. Then repeat, with no more than three target brands at a time.

The short version: nomination is earned by agreement across a brand, not won by a single pitch. Build evidence each team can check, be present where the garments are made, and make it easy for someone inside the brand to argue for you.

This article is practical guidance, not legal advice. Regulations and brand requirements change. Confirm current requirements and test methods with an ISO/IEC 17025-accredited laboratory.

Sources

  1. NEXT nominated trims supplier list (public copy): https://www.scribd.com/document/888880853/NEXT-Nominated-Trims-Supplier
  2. Macy’s nominated zipper and metal trim supplier list: https://www.macysnet.com/mdocweb/documents.aspx?id=1749
  3. Kohl’s Private Brands Preferred Supplier Program guidelines (public copy): https://pdfcoffee.com/download/preferred-supplier-guidelines-apparel1-pdf-free.html
  4. ECHA, REACH Annex XVII entry 79 (PFHxA) conditions of restriction: https://echa.europa.eu/documents/10162/f1451352-6834-634d-79a9-b43880dae258
  5. SGS, EU harmonises EN 1811:2023 for nickel restriction under REACH: https://www.sgs.com/en-ch/news/2024/01/safeguards-0224-eu-harmonizes-en-1811-2023-for-nickel-restriction-under-reach
  6. US CPSC, Total lead content: https://www.cpsc.gov/Business–Manufacturing/Business-Education/Lead/Total-Lead-Content
  7. European Commission, Digital Product Passport for textile apparel: https://single-market-economy.ec.europa.eu/single-market/digital-product-passport/textile-apparel_en
  8. Autogarment, nominated supplier approval process for trims: https://autogarment.com/nominated-supplier-approval-process-trims/
  9. European Commission, Regulation on deforestation-free products: https://environment.ec.europa.eu/topics/forests/deforestation/regulation-deforestation-free-products_en